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Bonjour! Pronounced [bawn-zhoor] and translated "good day", is such a pleasant greeting, ringing out from just about everyone here in Provence: shopkeepers, waiters/waitresses, school children, teenagers, old and young alike. It has a lilt to it, with the accent and pitch going up a bit on the second syllable and we're working hard to imitate it...
Yes, The Café is posting from the Provence region of France this week. If you read our last post, you're aware that Scott and I have been visiting our family in London and recently shared a post on everyday life there called London Life.
When possible, we love to take a little side adventure when we go to London. Last spring, it was Paris, this time we chose Provence as our destination. Neither of us have had the opportunity to explore this beautiful area of southern France, and since it's just two hours by air from London, we figured it would be an easy trip.
Nothing's quite as easy as it seems though, is it? We flew into the Mediterranean port of Marseille yesterday and rented a car. Scott's a brave soul and volunteered to be the designated driver while I co-piloted. It was a scary way to start our experience because, although the French drive on the right side of the road, we're not fluent in the language so the road signs might as well have been in Greek! Plus it was a raining, which made the unfamiliar signs and the correct exits even more difficult to interpret. Then there were the toll stations. Which lane are we supposed to be in? How do we pay? How much? Do they take credit cards? Are they going to arrest us cause we can't figure this out? Someone's beeping behind us! Yikes!
When we finally arrived our destination, (about 30 round-a-bouts later, no exaggeration), the charming city of Apt, France we gave each other a big high five. That's when we noticed each of us had a few extra gray hair!
The skies were bright blue and crystal clear today, so it was a great day to get out. I thought it would be fun to share a few pictures of our first twenty-four hours here. Apt is a Provencal market town perched right on the edge of the Luberon mountains. It dates back to Roman times, so it looks like something out of a movie scene. The old walled village in the center of the city is beyond charming, with long, narrow streets winding between the shops and houses. There are interesting little nooks and passageways everywhere waiting for discovery and we that's exactly how we spent the day!
We were thrilled to discover, quite by accident, that's there's a 25 mile rails-to-trails (meaning an old railroad track that's been paved) bike path within minutes of our flat here in Apt. We also found a bike shop and are now the proud renters of two eighteen-speed bicycles for the next week. A short ride today into the countryside blew us away with the brilliant fall beauty. We're excited to explore some of the nearby Provencal villages by bike over this next week.
Tomorrow we head north to Vaison la Romaine (another area of Provence) for a culinary adventure. Scott will have his camera in tow so we can blog about it next week. There's something really exciting in it for you too, so be sure to check back!
P.S. We rented a wonderful flat here in Apt. It's old (in a charming way), and quintessential Provencal. Below is a sneak peak, but we'll post more coming up. It might look fancy, but we really don't have a huge budget when we travel. The post will include ways we've found to make a trip like this decently economical!
Nighty, night!
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Sam @ My Carolina Kitchen says
Chris, I really enjoyed reading about your experiences with the roads in France. The round-abouts can be frustrating, but once you get accustomed to them, they are wonderful and far superior to stop signs and traffic lights. We adopted the "if you miss the exit the first time, go around again" mode of traveling through the round-abouts. Thankfully the first time we visited France many years ago we stayed with friends the first week and he got us orientated on how to pay on toll roads, parking garages, and other very confusing French things. On our last trip our car was equipped with GPS, which was a wonderful help.
I think you guys did great! I can't wait to see more about your rental.
Sam
Susan says
My husband would be a mess driving there! Glad all turned out well and the views are absolutely spectacular - the third photo is amazing!
danae says
Chris, what absolutely beautiful pictures,I wish I was there,it's a lifelong dream to go there one day, your pictures sort of took me on a virtual journey,Thank you for that,and all the yummy recipes, I don't comment often,but I love your blog.
Paule Caillat says
You are making the most of it ! Enjoy and next time come back to Paris 🙂
Chris Scheuer says
Paule, our hearts will always hold a piece of Paris in them, and the fond times we had had with you at your house are some of the very best of the best!
Maureen | Orgasmic Chef says
I love France. I know the people can be brusque if you don't speak the language but I love it there. I can read French so I'm okay with the signage but I feel self-conscious when I try to speak it.
All these photos are fabulous and now I want to travel. 🙂
Chris Scheuer says
We've heard that sometimes too Maureen, but honestly, the number of very pleasant encounters combined with the outright helpfulness of the French people we've met is always way in the majority of our experiences.
Vicki V says
I hope to go to France in 2017 for our 30th anniversary. Meanwhile, will live vicariously through you! Gorgeous photos.
Chris Scheuer says
Go for it Vicki! It will be an amazing time for both of you!
Marcia says
I love your posts. I was in Aix some years ago and loved the area. I did find it difficult to communicate as I spoke no French and few spoke English. I found them to be very creative when displaying their wares especially the beautiful flowers.....also went to one of their street markets which was a lot of fun. Looking forward to your next post....oh, try to get to Grasse where they make all their perfume.
Chris Scheuer says
Thanks for your comment Marcia! We have had a wonderful, funny time working through the communications barriers. Our French friends that we've met have been so patient with us as we fumble around in English! Despite our lack of a common language, we always seem to understand most of what we're saying to each other! Body language helps a lot!!
cheri says
Hi Chris and Scott, looks like your staying in a palace. Love the charming streets and buildings, oh I could live there.
Chris Scheuer says
We could too Cheri! We spent today in two towns near Apt that we could also live in - Roussillon and St. Saturnin-le-Apt! Beautiful, quaint and stunning views everywhere!
Kate says
What a wonderful way to spend fall! Love your pictures of the gorgeous countryside and those narrow streets....fun times!!
Chris Scheuer says
There's lots more to come Kate! Stay tuned!
Sheila in SF says
Love the pictures and your adventure. Provence has been a place I long to see.. Looking forward to the rest of your trip.
Chris Scheuer says
Thanks Sheila! Come with us, over this week, to a place that is so rich in it's love of food, history and people!
Chit says
Hi Chris! What a beautiful charmed life even just for a week! By the way at first I thought you were writing about an artist...a painter who paints daily in Provence! He has a website called "Postcard from Provence"! Who knows he may just be nearby! He is British I believe who moved to Provence with his wife a cellist and a young son to do his daily painting. He now conducts twice a year painting workshop for a week.. Be blessed with you lovely beautiful vacation!
Chris Scheuer says
Thank you Chit! We wanted our readers to feel like they were traveling with us, which is always our objective. Your painter sounds very interesting!
Kymberleigh says
Chris & Scott,
Your pictures are fabulous and I'm so thankful to have found your blog to be able to live vicariously thru you.
Thank you so much for sharing!
???? Kymberleigh
Chris Scheuer says
Kymberleigh, that makes our hearts sing! We'll do our best these next few days to show you some of the amazing things about Provence!
Elaine says
Beautiful!
Chris Scheuer says
Thanks Elaine!
Mary Hirsch says
Ohhhh you've made me homesick. I flew into Marseilles each time I would spend a month at the Institut de Francais in Villefranche. Although I never learned to speak French well (I am just too Iowa and too Type A), I can read, write and understand it. But, until that happened I do understand the driving dilemma. It freaked me out. I could take a roundabout two or three times before deciding where I was supposed to go. And,. the drivers of those big trucks are not kind to tourists at all. Michael's and my first biking trip was to Provence and I fell in love with it. There is no better way to see the country than on bikes. Are you heading up to Patricia Wells for a cooking class? That's my bet. Have a wonderful time wherever you are going.
Chris Scheuer says
Good guess Mary and that would have been really fun. We'll tell you more in a future post coming up soon! Tomorrow we will bike a large part of the La Véloroute du Calavon, an absolutely beautiful bike path through this part of Provence!
Karen (Back Road Journal) says
Even if you had a few problems, driving gives you such freedom to see the small villages of Provence. I'm looking forward to your posts, I've got fond memories of that area.
Chris Scheuer says
You're absolutely right Karen! We relish being able to take the less-traveled roads and meeting the French on their own turf! They are truly wonderful people!
Sharon B says
We spent a month in the Luberon area (Lourmarin was our village) and loved it. Our GPS died and we had to navigate the old fashioned way - with maps. Just remember that you can go around a round-about as many times as you want until you're sure which road to take. It also helps a lot to know the village names that you will driving through as the next village will be the name to look for on the round-about signs. Many people in Provence speak English well enough to help you. The construction worker sitting next to me in a cafe taught me to mix and drink Pastis!
Have fun.
Chris Scheuer says
Sharon, I love your comment! And so true! People all over Provence have helped us, and yes, we drove around a few roundabouts a couple of times to get the directions straight - so funny!
Charlotte Moore says
How nice to travel so often. I LOVE the ceiling in the bedroom.
Chris Scheuer says
We do too Charlotte! It's our last view every night and our first each morning. Like waking up in a castle!
Liz says
We spent a couple days in Aix---so beautiful! Some of the best food from our visit to France was there. And we got totally lost driving near Normandy. Our GPS was set to French and our map didn't show the train station where we disembarked. BIll was not amused!!! Enjoy!! I"m off to read about your sticky toffee pudding...
Chris Scheuer says
Isn't it funny Liz, how the nerve-wracking memories mellow with time and become some of the fondest, funniest memories we have?
Victoria Love says
Love your travel notes and photos! For many years my parents rented a 300 yr old farmhouse in Provence for the month of September. Lots of good memories of the food and perched villages, food and countryside, food and lovely locals, food and wine, food .... :). Roundabouts, not so much! Still live in fear of them, lol!
Looking forward to more updates. Thank you!
Chris Scheuer says
Thanks so much for your comment Victoria! Chris and I have long talked about renting a country home in France sometime - who knows, maybe in Provence!
Denise says
I'm enjoying these posts and I can't wait for more! The pictures are so lovely, and I'm happy for y'all.
Chris Scheuer says
Thanks Denise! There's much more to come!
Tricia @ Saving room for dessert says
Wow what a beautiful adventure. I bet you were both thrilled about the bike path - that's the best way to see the area for sure! Safe travels, can't wait to see more.
Chris Scheuer says
Thanks Tricia! We went farther today, all the way to Pont Julien, a 2,000 year old bridge built by the Romans from 27 B.C. to 14 A.D. The views were extraordinary, with Provencal golden light illuminating the scenes all the way!
Brenda says
This is so fun to see all this. The pictures are exquisite and everything looks so quaint. Will be looking forward to the next post for sure.
Chris Scheuer says
Thanks Brenda! It's a new, exciting scene around every corner here. We are enjoying the Provencal fall temperatures and sparkling, sunny weather too!
Monique Le Percq says
Crestet is a very small village near Vaison la Romaine that is worth a visit when you are in the neighbourhood. An ideal spot for photographers and still a bit medieval.
Chris Scheuer says
Monique, I remember going past it yesterday, when we went to Vaison la Romaine! I wish we had more time to spent up there!
Cuisine de Provence says
What beautiful Photos of our beautiful Provence and what a fabulous flat - have fun exploring!
Chris Scheuer says
Thank you so much Barbara! We had the most wonderful day cooking with you and enjoying your home and hospitality!
Monique says
I can post today!
We went there..I LOVE where you stayed and the pics are terrific..The market was very good too.
Our husbands are supre.
Jacques drove the entire month away.
We were quite funny leaving Marseilles w/ the rental car..and hitting the first toll on l'Autoroute Du Soleil and we didn't know how to open the window to toss the money or whatever it is we had to do..:)
I hope your budget is our budget because I love that room!
Chris Scheuer says
Monique! You get it! We laughed our way through the first day traveling up here from Marseille, trying to get used to French road signs and toll booths!