Home Again… But Still Dreaming of Italy 🇮🇹 (Part 1)

Part 1: Milan & Lake Garda

There's something wonderful about coming home after a trip. We love sleeping in our own bed, seeing our beautiful North Carolina mountains again, and settling back into familiar routines. But if I'm being honest, little pieces of our hearts are still wandering through northern Italy.

One breathtaking view after another. Italy never stopped amazing us!

Over the next two weeks, I thought it would be fun to share some of the highlights from our four unforgettable weeks in Italy celebrating our 50th anniversary. So many of you followed along through emails, Instagram stories, and videos, and your sweet comments made the journey even more special. Thank you for traveling with us!

This week, we're looking back at the first half of our adventure, from the bustling streets of Milan to the breathtaking beauty and amazing hospitality of our hosts at Lake Garda. Next week, we'll head into the majestic Dolomites, spend a (very hot!) day in Venice, and wrap up our journey with our final (not planned) stop before flying home.

So grab a cup of coffee, and come along as we relive our Italian adventure... one beautiful stop at a time.

Part 1: Milan and Lake Garda

Milan: The Perfect Beginning

Our Italian adventure began in Milan (or as it's called by Italians, "Milano" (pronounced, mee-LAH-noh), a city I deliberately chose as our arrival destination because I thought it would be a bit cooler than southern Italy.

The Monument to Victor Emmanuel II stands proudly in Piazza del Duomo, with the stunning Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (a beautiful glass-domed shopping mall) just behind it, one of Milan's most iconic landmarks.

Having visited Rome and Florence in the summer before, I'd decided I didn't need to experience those scorching temperatures again. Well... apparently Italy had other plans! Just as we arrived, much of Europe was in the grip of an unprecedented heat dome, and Milan was experiencing some of the hottest temperatures Italy had seen in years.

On the hottest mornings, we happily ducked into the cool elegance of the Galleria. In a way it felt like stepping into another era. Part grand shopping arcade, part architectural masterpiece, it's just as breathtaking to look up as it is to wander through.

We quickly learned to adapt to the heat. We'd head out early each morning, explore until the heat became too much, retreat to our air-conditioned hotel for a few hours, then venture back out to enjoy the city once the evening began to cool.

A refreshing pause at the fountains of Piazza Castello on a very warm day in Milan.

After long, hot days wandering Milan, stepping through these doors felt like entering another world. Cool, peaceful, and wonderfully welcoming, Hotel Vico couldn't have been a better place to begin our Italian adventure.

One question we often get after a trip is, "Where did you stay?" In Milan, we stayed at Vico Milano (pictured above and below), a lovely boutique hotel tucked away on a quiet street, yet still within easy walking distance of the Duomo, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, and many of the city's most popular attractions.

Our home away from home in Milan… quiet, beautiful, and tucked away from the bustle of the city.

We loved being close to everything without feeling like we were in the middle of the tourist crowds. The staff was warm, welcoming, and incredibly helpful. The only caveat is that the rooms are quite small. We'd happily stay there again for a night or two, but for a four- or five-night stay, we'd probably look for accommodations with a bit more space.

From there, we spent our days wandering the city, soaking up its incredible history and beauty. Everywhere we turned there was something wonderful to discover!

The magnificent Duomo di Milano. Construction began in 1386 and took nearly six centuries to complete.

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II quickly became one of our favorite places in Milan. Whether we were admiring its spectacular architecture, enjoying a cappuccino, or simply people-watching, we found ourselves returning again and again!

Our very first evening in Milan set the tone for the rest of the trip. Friends who live in the city recommended a wonderful neighborhood restaurant, Osteria Conchetta where one of the signature dishes was risotto prepared right at the table inside a giant wheel of aged Parmesan cheese! Watching the creamy risotto being stirred into the warm cheese was almost as much fun as eating it... and trust me, it tasted every bit as amazing as it looked! Scott captured the whole experience on video, so if you'd like to see it in action, you can watch it here.

I call this "Dinner and a show"!

One of the absolute highlights of our stay was seeing Leonardo da Vinci's The Last Supper. Standing in the same room as one of the world's most famous paintings was an unforgettable experience and one we'll treasure forever. If it's on your bucket list, be sure to reserve tickets well in advance as they often sell out months ahead!

Painted by Leonardo da Vinci between 1495 and 1498, The Last Supper is one of the world's most celebrated works of art. Seeing it in person was unforgettable!

Another highlight of our time in Milan was taking a cooking class through the Cesarine program. Cesarine connects travelers with carefully vetted home chefs throughout Italy, inviting you into their homes for a hands-on cooking class or demonstration. It's such a wonderful way to experience authentic Italian hospitality and everyday life beyond the typical tourist attractions.

Our afternoon with Enrico was so much more than a cooking class-it felt like spending time in the kitchen of a good friend!

Our instructor, Enrico (pictured above), was absolutely wonderful. Although the class was scheduled to last three hours, we ended up spending more than five hours in his home. There was never a sense that he was watching the clock or hurrying us along. We cooked, laughed, shared stories, lingered over our meal, and even enjoyed homemade limoncello that wasn't part of the class, it was simply Enrico being a gracious host.

Everything we made (Osso buco, peach risotto, and focaccia) was absolutely delicious, but I've already been back in my kitchen testing the amazing focaccia recipe that Enrico shared with us. I can't wait to perfect it and share it with you! It was one of those experiences that reminded us that some of the very best travel memories come from slowing down and connecting with people.

If you're planning a trip to Italy, I can't recommend a Cesarine experience highly enough. And if you happen to be in Milan, be sure to book a class with our friend, Enrico!

Of course, no visit to Milan would be complete without gelato... and I think it's safe to say we did our part to support the local gelato shops! Considering the near-100° temperatures, I like to think of it as less of a treat and more of a survival strategy.

When Milan is experiencing one of the hottest weeks in years, stopping for gelato isn't indulging… it's survival (and research, of course!)

We may not have come home with a designer wardrobe, but we certainly enjoyed pretending! On the hottest afternoons, browsing Milan's beautiful boutiques and high-end department stores became the perfect excuse to cool off in the air conditioning while admiring Italy's incredible sense of style. The window displays alone were works of art.

Milan's fashion scene is every bit as beautiful as you'd imagine, and browsing in the air-conditioned shops was a wonderfully cool escape from the summer heat!

By the time we left Milan, we were already quite smitten with Italy. The stunning architecture and incredible food were everything we'd hoped for, but it was the warmth and generosity of the people we met that made us fall in love with Italy from the very beginning. We couldn't wait to discover what awaited us next.

Arrivederci Milano - see you on the other end!

Lake Garda: Where every day felt like a gift!

After the energy and heat of Milan, Lake Garda felt like a deep breath. We traded city streets for winding lakeside roads, bustling piazzas for adorable villages, and towering cathedrals for sparkling blue water framed by dramatic mountains.

One thing we've learned over the years is that our favorite trips aren't the ones where we check the most sights off a list-they're the ones where we slow down long enough to feel like we really know a place. As we researched Lake Garda, it quickly became clear there was far more to discover than we could fit into a day or two, so we happily planned to spend ten days exploring its villages, hiking its mountains, biking its lakeside paths, and getting to know the people who call this beautiful corner of Italy home.

As we rounded one of the final curves on the winding lakeside road, Lake Garda suddenly came into view. The brilliant blue water stretched out before us, framed by dramatic mountains, and we both just smiled. After months of planning, and a few very warm hot days in Milan, we knew we'd found someplace special. Looking back, it's one of those travel moments we'll never forget.

We arrived at Lake Garda expecting beautiful scenery. What we didn't expect was to fall completely in love with this magical place. This was our very first view. 

Our Airbnb was located on the cliffs above the tiny village of Castelletto di Brenzone, on the eastern shore of Lake Garda. Every morning we woke to breathtaking lake views, the local rooster crowing a wake-up call, and the feeling that life simply moved at a gentler pace. One of my favorite parts of each day was stepping out onto our terrace.

Morning coffee came with quite a view. Every day at Lake Garda began with gratitude… and a lot of "Wow!"

The view never seemed quite the same twice.

Our little terrace quickly became our favorite "restaurant" in Italy. Fresh local cheese and charcuterie, homemade jam, and a front-row seat to one of the most beautiful views we've ever seen.

Sometimes the lake shimmered beneath brilliant blue skies; other mornings it was wrapped in a soft haze.

The clouds parted, shafts of sunlight streamed across the lake, and for a few magical minutes, there was a tiny glimpse of the glory of our great God.

Watching the light change throughout the day became one of each day's sweetest pleasures.

Who needs a restaurant when this is your dinner view? Every evening felt like a celebration!

Our Airbnb host, Hildegard, quickly became one of the highlights of our stay. On the corner of our terrace sat a little table that soon became the most anticipated part of every morning. After a few days, I started calling it The Surprise Table because we never knew what we'd find waiting for us.

Every day brought another sweet surprise from Hildegard. Her warmth and generosity made Lake Garda feel like home.

There were always fresh breakfast rolls and eggs from Hildegard's chickens whenever we needed them, but there were also delightful surprises: warm apple strudel one morning, a homemade marble coffee cake another, beautiful arrangements of fresh flowers, freshly made jams, sweet good-morning notes and baskets of just-picked fruits and vegetables from their incredible gardens.

Hildegard's husband, Norbert, is most definitely a "master gardener." His gardens are nothing short of amazing! He tends olive groves, vineyards, kiwi vines, plum, lemon and fig trees, more than twenty varieties of apple trees, and what may have been the largest bay laurel (bay leaf) tree I've ever seen! Lavender, rosemary, and herbs of every kind grow in great abandon all over the propery! Every gift that appeared on The Surprise Table came directly from their gardens, and straight from their generous hearts.

By the end of our stay, we found ourselves looking forward to each morning with childlike anticipation, wondering what surprise Hildegard would have waiting for us next. Such thoughtful touches and tender care perfectly reflected the warmth and generosity we encountered throughout Italy.

Talk about farm-to-table! Hildegard spoiled us with fresh eggs, homemade preserves, and wonderful little gifts throughout our stay!

One of the little things I especially enjoyed was a fabulous homemade herb salt, one of the condiments, on the counter in our apartment. I found myself using it on everything - it was so delicious that one day I asked if Hildegard would share her recipe. She simply said, "Come over tomorrow, afternoon and I'll show you."

The gardens were beautiful, but it was Hildegard's generous heart that made this place unforgettable!

The next day, she met us and we walked through the gardens to her home. We found a large table covered with piles of freshly picked herbs from Norbert's gardens and large containers of coarse salt.

The first step? Freshly picked herbs... lots of them! Hildegard shared her favorite combinations as we prepared to make several delicious herb salt blends.

For the next hour or so, Hildegard taught us how to make not one, but eight different gourmet herb salts. Each blend had its own unique personality, and every one smelled more wonderful than the last. It was one of those unexpected experiences that perfectly captured the joy of traveling, learning something new from someone who genuinely loves sharing what they know.

I'm pretty sure that Hildegard might just have the most beautiful kitchen iew in all of Italy! 

I was so inspired that as soon as we returned home, I gathered fresh herbs from our garden and recreated Hildegard's method in my kitchen. I love that it takes just just 10 to 15 minutes of hands-on time (plus a few days to dry). I'll be sharing Hildegard's simple technique, and my own favorite blend, here on the blog very soon!

Another highlight of our Lake Garda stay was a pasta-making class with Maria at Good Food Good Mood. Maria was a fantastic teacher, knowledgeable, organized, and passionate about sharing authentic Italian cooking.

Maria welcomed us into her home and taught us far more than how to make pasta. She gave us a glimpse into the heart of Italian hospitality!

Learning to make fresh pasta in her beautiful villa overlooking Lake Garda was an experience we'll never forget. Spending time in local homes like hers gave us a glimpse into everyday Italian life and became one of our favorite parts of the trip.

We may look like two proud peacocks… but can you blame us? Homemade tagliatelle, orecchiette, and ravioli!

Back to life at Lake Garda - most mornings began with coffee on the terrace before we set off to explore. We hopped on our bikes and meandered from one lakeside village to the next, stopping whenever something caught our eye, a charming waterfront café, a bustling piazza, a cappuccino with a view, a leisurely lunch, or, of course, another scoop of gelato. There was no rush and very little planning. Some of our favorite days simply unfolded one delightful stop at a time.

Miles of lakeside bike paths, postcard-worthy views, and nowhere we needed to be except wherever the path led us. Next stop, cappuccinos, please - although gelato would have b a perfectly acceptable alternative!!

One afternoon we rode one of the most spectacular bike paths we've ever experienced. Built right into the cliffs near Limone sul Garda, the trail hugs the mountainside high above the lake, offering breathtaking views around every curve. It's one of those places that's impossible to fully capture in a photo but I hope this gives you a little taste.

They call this "the most beautiful bike path on the planet". It's no exaggeration!

Although summer temperatures around the lake were still quite warm, escaping the heat was wonderfully easy. A short drive and a cable car ride whisked us high above the lake to Monte Baldo, where cool mountain breezes, rolling alpine meadows, grazing cows, and panoramic views awaited us.

The hiking trails on Monte Baldo were lined with an incredible variety of wildflowers. Everywhere we looked there were colorful blooms swaying in the mountain breeze, with butterflies dancing from flower to flower. I expected to fall in love with the mountains, but I hadn't expected to become completely captivated by the wildflowers. Little did I know they were just the beginning. The meadows of the Dolomites would soon take that fascination to a whole new level.

By the time Nick, Lindsay (our son and his wife), along with their children, Emmy and Hayes, arrived later in the week to join us, we'd settled into an easy rhythm and we loved sharing life on Lake Garda with them.

Our Monte Baldo hiking crew! Emmy and Hayes were wonderful little adventurers and made every mile even more fun (while their parents had a "date-day".)

This trip began as a way to celebrate our 50th wedding anniversary, and somehow it turned into so much more than we ever imagined.

We discovered breathtaking beauty, met extraordinary people, learned new things, laughed a lot, and created sweet memories we'll treasure for as long as God gives us breath on this earth.

We still had no idea that pehaps even sweeter moments were just ahead of us in the Dolomites...

To be continued... Join us next week for Home Again... But Still Dreaming of Italy 🇮🇹 (Part 2), where we'll share our unforgettable adventures in the Dolomites, Venice, and the journey home.

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If You Go...

If you're planning a visit to Lake Garda, we can't recommend Between Lake and Sky, Hildegard's (and her daughter, Mailbrit's) Airbnb highly enough. Between the spectacular views, the peaceful location, and, of course, The Surprise Table, it became one of our favorite places we've ever stayed!