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Looking for a magical culinary adventure? Ballymaloe Cookery School in Shanagarry, Ireland is truly an amazing experience for anyone who enjoys cooking or wants to learn to become a better cook!
I honestly can't remember when or how I first heard of The Ballymaloe Cookery School (pronounced Ballymaloo), but I've long admired Darina Allen, (founder of Ballymaloe) and her daughter-in-law, Rachel Allen (who helps run the farm-to-table cooking school).
I knew if I ever got the opportunity to travel to Ireland, Ballymaloe would be one place I would definitely want to visit. When our niece decided to have a destination wedding in Ireland this summer, it didn't take me long to check into attending class at Ballymaloe.
I'm embarrassed to admit this, but, if you'd handed me a map of Ireland several months ago, I couldn't have told you where Dublin, Belfast or any of the other major cities were located. And I surely couldn't have pointed to Shanagarry, home of both the Ballymaloe Cookery School and Ballymaloe House, an internationally acclaimed restaurant and guest house.
After checking things out, I discovered that Shanagarry is a tiny village in the southeast of Ireland, just a stone throw from the Irish Sea and about 20 miles east of Cork.
When I looked into the cooking school, I found they offered afternoon, whole-day, week-long, 5-week and 12-week certificate classes, covering a broad range of culinary and horticulture topics. I was thrilled to be able to fit a 5-day, week-long class into our Ireland itinerary.
Scott and I flew into Dublin early on Friday, July 26th. We picked up our rental car and spent two days recovering from jet lag, getting accustomed to driving on the left side of the road (yikes!) and touring the lovely area just north of Dublin.
Malahide Castle, just north of Dublin. A delightful place to wander on a pretty Irish summer day.
On Sunday we traveled 3 hours south to County Cork and checked into a lovely hotel (Castlemartyr Resort), originally a castle and later a manor house.
I chose Castlemartyr as it is located just 10 minutes from The Ballymaloe Cookery School. Plus I'd never slept in a castle - or a manor house!
Early Monday morning, excited (and a little nervous) I typed Ballymaloe into my GPS and off we went. I felt like we were headed to the middle of nowhere, and that wasn't far from the truth!
As we were directed down narrow country roads with far off glimpses of the beautiful, azure Irish Sea, we held our breath, hoping there wouldn't be a car coming from the opposite direction. Although the roads are intended for two-way traffic, they're only slightly wider than the width of one car!
As we crept closer and closer (according to my GPS), I thought, "Surely we're in the wrong place!". The tiny, winding road was lined with tall trees and hedgerows of wildflowers and blackberry brambles, forming a frame for the fertile patchwork fields beyond. With nary a car in front or behind, and no signage to direct us, a myriad of questions darted through my mind. An internationally famous cooking school way out here? Was I going to be the only student? Did I have the wrong time? The wrong day?
After driving on this tiny lane for what seemed forever, a driveway to the left appeared with a small, but colorful sign: "Ballymaloe Cookery School". Whew! We turned into the long tree-lined driveway and discovered a parking lot, filled with cars!
It turned out that many of the students had arrived the night before and were staying right on the Ballymaloe grounds in charming little cottages which can be rented while taking classes.
Ballymaloe cookery school has cottages right on the premises that you can rent while taking classes.They're basic but quite charming.
My anxiousness was calmed, and when we entered and were warmly greeted, I quickly felt at home. We were directed to the lovely dining room where a delicious breakfast spread awaited us. Homemade yogurt, labneh, granolas and muesli of all kinds, fruits of every variety in lovely syrups, Irish porridge, thick-sliced, hearty bread, scones, jams, jellies, honeycomb, a large assortment of cheese, sausages and charcuterie. And of course big bowls of sunshiny Irish butter. (I've decided that breakfast at Ballymaloe is as good as it gets!)
Darina was there to welcome us and shared how the majority of the breakfast was sourced right from the Ballymaloe farm and gardens.
I was far from the only student in the class, there were actually around 40 students participating in the week at Ballymaloe. It was fun getting to know them and discovering that they came from all over the globe, some as close as nearby Cork and yet others from England, Switzerland, Italy, Denmark, Germany, Australia, Hawaii, Seattle, New York...
The classroom at Ballymaloe. Everyone liked being in the front row but really, the way it was set up, everyone had a good view.
After breakfast, Darina gave us marching orders and kitchen assignments for the week. She explained that each afternoon we would have a cooking demonstration, which was the classroom portion of the class. The following morning would be a hands-on time, where each student would have the opportunity to prepare several of the demonstration recipes.
Although I loved learning from Rachel and Darina, Pam was also awesome. With Irish red hair, a great sense of humor and in-depth culinary wisdom, she kept the class very lively and interesting.
The demonstrations were wonderful, 10-12 recipes per day, and loaded with so many great tips, given by Darina, Rachel and other staff members. The hands-on kitchen time was invaluable, as Ballymaloe has a ratio of one instructor for every 6 students, so there were plenty of opportunities to have questions answered and to receive individual attention.
We cooked an amazingly broad range of recipes: Irish brown bread, Irish scones, soda breads of all sorts (including a delicious soda bread pizza!), wonderful soups, hearty stews, salads, jam, appetizers and lots of delicious international dishes like African tagines, Moroccan couscous, Swiss roulades, meringues, Middle Eastern dishes, panna cotta and so... much more!
Learning to cook all these great recipes was wonderful, but even better, was gathering with the other students for lunch and sharing a fabulous array of our morning labors. Lunch was a fun time to get acquainted with other students and also to discuss our experiences in the kitchen.
One of the things about Ballymaloe that I really love is that the students are given full access to the farm and gardens. We were invited to come early and help milk the cows, make bread or harvest produce that would be used in the kitchens and classrooms.
One morning Scott and I arrived early and help bring some of "the girls" in for milking.
I choose to prepare a summer fruit panna cotta for one of my "hands-on" kitchen recipes, and was able to pick the fruit just minutes before cooking from the "soft fruit gardens".
Talk about farm to table! How fun (and delicious) to pick the produce from the garden and use it within hours!
Other students helped pick produce to make soups, salads and side dishes.
Every kind of produce imaginable is not just growing, but growing prolifically at Ballymaloe, and is available to the students for creating delicious dishes.
All of the students agreed the quality of the ingredients at Ballymaloe is top-notch! Anything we needed was at our fingertips and in whatever quantity was necessary. Fresh herbs, spices, veggies, fruit, meat, poultry... anything our little foodie hearts desired!
This is part of the pantry at Ballymaloe, always stocked with lots of fresh and dry herbs, fresh ground spices, fruits and veggies from the gardens (they even grow citrus in the glasshouses at Ballymaloe!), potatoes, onions... everything!
Every morning fresh herbs are harvested in pails and buckets for use in the kitchens.
Rhubarb is in high season in Ireland right now and almost every restaurant we've visited has had a rhubarb cake or crumble on the menu.
After cooking all morning and then sitting in class all afternoon, Scott and I would spend the late afternoons hiking the cliffs of Ballycotton, just minutes from Ballymaloe. The scenery was absolutely stunning with spectacular new views around every bend of the path.
We usually ran into a friend or two on our hikes, this one questioning what we were during on his turf!
The wonderful week at Ballymaloe flew by and it was Friday, almost before I could blink my eyes.
My three "cooking buddies", René, Sharon and Caroline. We were only together for 5 days but I will always remember them! I was paired up, from the beginning with Caroline, who's from London. We bonded immediately and are already making plans to visit each other soon!
Leaving was bittersweet, so many wonderful memories, a host of new friends from all over the world and a large packet of delicious recipes. I've already bookmarked a bunch of my favorites, and can't wait to share them with you in the weeks ahead! If you want to do some Irish cooking before then, check out our Easy Irish Shortbread Cookies or this wonderful savory Cheddar Herb Irish Soda Bread.
A few of you have asked what Scott did while I was in classes all week. He definitely wasn't twiddling his thumbs or moping in the hotel room. He was either at nearby Ballycotton, wandering on the cliffs (pic above) or here at Ballymaloe, as there's so much more than just the classrooms and kitchens.
As I mentioned earlier in this post, Ballymaloe is also an organic, 100-acre, self sustaining farm and Scott covered just about every square foot of it! He's working on a post coming later this week, Ballymaloe, Behind the Scenes. I think you'll be amazed at the scope of this amazing place called Ballymaloe!
P.S. I'm already trying to figure out how I can go back. Want to join me?
Tammy Hines says
I, too, just finished three days of cooking at Ballymaloe. It was just lovely, and I look forward to returning for a longer period. Such a spectacular experience, and I did stay at the cottages on the grounds and met a lovely bunch of students each day. Looking forward to returning
Chris Scheuer says
That's so awesome, Tammy! Definitely a wonderful experience of a lifetime!
Denise P says
Loved reading about your cooking school experience. I do hope you will share a soda bread pizza recipe!
Laura Brennan says
Was it expensive?
Chris Scheuer says
Hi Laura, you can go on their website and find the prices for their different class options. They have afternoon, one day, one week and longer classes. I felt like I definitely got my money's worth. The instruction and attention are excellent and the quality of food they supply to cook with is amazing. We got fed breakfast, lunch and what could have been dinner at the end of each day as they shared the food from the many demonstrations of the afternoon.
Vicki G says
Sounds great but I would love it if you would teach cooking classes! I would come to learn at the hands of the master.
Danielle Schultz says
Hello Chris
What a beautiful place to go and learn!!! I’m so happy for you and I do hope you will share the recipes. I’m looking forward to them with fall coming hearty stews sound wonderful and delicious bread with jam. Thanks for sharing
Danielle
Pam says
Hi Chris,
I am wondering if you have any recommendations for something like this in North America?
Jennifer @ Seasons and Suppers says
Such a wonderful experience! Cooking, new friends and a beautiful setting. Doesn't get much better than that 🙂
Chit says
What a beautiful wonderful enriching trip! Must be in every foodies bucket list. Thank you for sharing these lovely photos and blogs!
Chris Scheuer says
Thanks so much, Chit. Yes, anyone who enjoys food would love Ballymaloe!
Abbey says
Thanks so much for sharing this with us. I have put Ballymaloe on my bucket list! Can't wait to see Scott's behind the scenes photos and am drooling already thinking about the great recipes you'll be sharing that I'm sure this trip inspired!
Sharie Maloney says
How Fabulous! Last night over dinner my husband, Tim was mentioning he would like to go to Ireland for a month next summer. Your post couldn’t have been more timely! Yes, I would love to meet you there and perhaps for a two or three week session!
Sharie
Chris Scheuer says
That's awesome, Sharie! I would absolutely love to go back! And yes, two or three weeks would be wonderful!
NAI YEE SIU says
Awesome trip and experience for you! Can't wait to see what is new coming up from your notebook.
Chris Scheuer says
Thanks so much, Nai! I can't wait to share some of the wonderful recipes from Ballymaloe!
Liz says
What a magnificent experience! Thanks for sharing it with us all!
Charlotte Moore says
Thanks for sharing your 5 days of cooking classes. Seems you had a great experience.
Donna B Oliphint says
What an incredible trip! Thanks so much for letting us enjoy it through your blog!
Paula says
Hi Chris and Scott, Ot looks like you had a wonderful experience! So happy for both of you. Can't wait to see more pics and try some of the recipes you share. Made your fresh corn, couscous and spinach salad for a dinner party and everyone loved it!
So fresh tasting! Thanks for sharing!
Chris Scheuer says
Thanks, Paula! We have had an amazing time. We love Ireland, love the Irish people, the food - it's all so lovely! The only thing I don't like about Ireland is that practically every day is a bad hair day. I told Scott "I can't believe that my phone can recognize me with my hair looking like this?!?!!! 😂
Mary Kings says
Sounds like a lovely experience! I bought Darina's cookbook several years ago when we were visiting Ireland. I had forgotten all abut it. Plan to go to Ireland again next year. May put this on my bucket list.
Chris Scheuer says
If you have a chance, do it! You will love it!
Karen Ray says
Fantastic! I am so happy you were able to do this. Cooking AND traveling...the best. Thank you for sharing this adventure with us.
Chris Scheuer says
You are right, Karen, great food and travel is a wonderful combination 🙂 Miss you! Please come see us soon!
Monique says
Trip of a lifetime with magnificent shots🌟How fortunate Scott is such an accomplished photographer?
You are a lovely couple
Chris Scheuer says
Aww... you're so sweet, Monique! Thanks 🙂
Ruth says
I so very much enjoyed reading about your week at Ballymaloe ! It sounds like it was a wonderful experience. Tell your hubby that the pictures are excellent and I look forward to his “behind the scenes” post. You just have the “bestest” blog and I enjoy every single post.....and all the food I have prepared using your recipes. I have learned so many things from you! Thank you for sharing you enthusiasm, talent, recipes, and life with those of us who follow your blog....but seldom comment.
Chris Scheuer says
Thanks, Ruth! I'm so happy you have enjoyed our recipes. Thanks so much for taking the time to leave such a sweet comment!
Caryl says
Thank you for the delightful recap of your experience at Balleymaloe. I have taken day classes and absolutely loved it. Now you have inspired me to take the week long course! I had to laugh at your description of finding your way the first day. We had the same experience so two years later we came the night before, staying at the lovely Balleymaloe House. I would be interested to know what your fellow students thought of the cottages. Perhaps you should organize a group trip for the week long course......just a thought. I also want you to know that I made the sweet potato quinoa salad and it is a keeper!
Chris Scheuer says
Thanks so much, Caryl, for taking the time to leave a comment.
My friend Caroline stayed in one of the cottages. She said it "was nice but pretty basic".
I'm so happy you enjoyed the sweet potato salad. I can't wait to make it again when I get home!
Pattie Bock says
I stayed at Balleymaloe for several days recently... the cottages were the most charming I have stayed in during my many trips to Ireland. They have little sunporches on the front, looking out into a courtyard, and hanging baskets everywhere. My cottage was named " Fuchsia" after the flowers. The room was very pretty and spotless with seating, a roomy closet and lovely bath. The food at the Inn, delicious. I could go on...... You must go!
Chris Scheuer says
That's so good to know, Pattie. Neither of us got a chance to see the interiors or the cottages. They are definitely adorable on the outside!
Tricia | Saving Room for Dessert says
I knew you were going to love it there! I would go back in a heartbeat and so happy you enjoyed your cooking school experience. Safe travels and keep the photos coming!
Chris Scheuer says
Thanks so much, Tricia. I know you know all about the charm and beauty here!